How to grow Blood Lily

Fairly hardy in warmer areas the blood lily can be overwintered by applying a layer of mulch in the garden. In colder regions the care for this lily includes digging the bulbs out in the fall. Be aware of the amaryllis lily borer which can damage the plant to a high degree. Slugs and snails can also be a problem.¹

The seed should be sown as soon as it is ripe. This does not necessarily mean that the berries must be removed the minute they turn red. If they are not under threat from birds, or curious children, they can be left on without harming the seed until they start to look a bit wrinkled, which should be around early spring. Clean the pulp off, with care as the seed underneath is soft and fleshy. The best is to rub or peel it off.

Use a well-drained, light potting mix, press the seed gently into the soil, do not cover it but leave the tops just visible or level with the soil surface. Keep damp but not waterlogged. Flowers can be expected from the third season onwards.

As Blood Lily is half hardy, ensure temperatures are mild enough to plant out (around -1°C / 30°F as a guideline) - wait until after your last frost date to be on the safe side.

These estimates for how long Blood Lily takes to sprout, grow and harvest are from real observations from real gardeners, right around the world.

The botanical epithet is from the Latin multiflorus meaning “with many flowers”

Blood flower, Catherine wheel, Poison root, Fireball lily, Bloedblom, Gifwortel

Scadoxus multiflorus (Martyn) Raf. ssp. katherinae (Baker) Friis & Nordal

¹ www.plantingflowerbulbs.com/blood-lily.htm