Wisteria prefers a moist soil. It can tolerate shade, but some sun is needed for optimal blooming.
Wisteria need careful pruning to maximise the flowers in the spring.
Remember that they bloom on the previous seasons wood. So don’t prune in the spring.
First choose the shoots that will become the permanent frame work and tie these to the support. In the summer, after flowering the plant makes whippy growth. The first pruning trims these back to five buds. This exposes the wood to the sunshine and it ripens during the summer months.
The second pruning takes place in the winter when the plant is dormant and without leaves, so it is very easy to see the shape. Continue to tie in the stems that are required for the frame work but then all other shoots are shortened back to permanent structural growth and cut at three buds.
This two stage pruning, promotes flowering spurs, and the framework shoots are tied in each season as it covers the support in an organised way.
Wisteria flower from spurs, on growth that has been made the previous year. Pruning at the wrong time of year may mean the flower buds or the potential to form flower buds is removed.,
At both pruning times take a few minutes to examine the graft union. It must not be covered with earth and any suckers or side shoots within 30cm of the soil level should be removed. Carefully pull these off rather than cut as they will be less likely to regrow as the meristem will be pulled off with the shoot.
Slow to bloom from seed and does not come true to type, they can take up to seven years from seed. Wisteria are generally grafted to a root stock and so flower at a younger age
For the home gardner wisteria can be propagated from semi ripe cuttings taken in the summer, or hard wood cuttings in the winter. layering a lateral shoot is also a good alternative. Plants from cuttings and layerings have the added advantage on no graft that may fail or the production of unwanted suckers
Wisteria require a support and can be trained around a frame or against a wall or grown as a standard. They prefer a sunny spot.
Wisteria can be trained onto wires against a wall or a sturdy trellis or over a pergola. Do not underestimate how heavy a vigorous wisteria will be. Even a wisteria trained to be a standard will need a sturdy post for support at least to start with. Traditionally Chinese wisteria are chosen for growing against a wall as the racemes are not quite as long as Japanese wisteria that are more likely to need a pergola
Plant at least 1m from the wall base or tree trunk (angling it towards the support) to avoid the rain shadow. Dig the hole two or three times as wide as the pot it was grown in and a little deeper. Loosed the soil in the bottom of the hole and add some blood fish and bone. Check that the plant when in the hole, is not so deep that the graft is covered, it needs to sit above the ground level, with the graft well clear. Back fill, water and firm in. Take the wisteria off the stick it was grown on and attach it to the support, with string.
Water well during the first growing season
The seeds are found in a pea like pod that ripens over the summer. They are easily collected when the wisteria is pruned in the winter. Dry the pod and open to harvest the seeds.
The seeds, as well as all the plant parts are toxic
These estimates for how long Chinese Wisteria takes to sprout, grow and harvest are from real observations from real gardeners, right around the world.
Average days | Min days | Max days (0)
Average days | Min days | Max days (0)
Average 2500 days | Min days | Max days (0)
1 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wisteria_sinensis