I think they will be the best tasting tomatoes you have ever worked so hard to get. When is your first frost date? The interesting thing about patio tomatoes in a container is that you can bring them inside if it gets too cold. I think you’ll do well – and learn more in the process.

I pray your heat stunted hesitant “bad boy” tomatoes get the hint with the new comers!

I’m glad you got the pun. I was hesitant because posting in this format sometimes one can lose the humor and get offended or confused easily.

However, I bet you could easily cover the tomatoes with a little “hot house” design. I have faith in you.

Even if your tomatoes don’t have enough time to mature before frost, you can still pick them green. I had about 80 green tomatoes last year at the end of the season because I started more tomatoes late in the season (in July actually). You can either use them green (i.e. fried green tomatoes, green pickle relish) or you can give them some time to turn red. I just put mine on the counter and they ripened. They’re not as tasty to me when ripened on the counter. But, I still had quite an abundance and they ripened in a good frequency for me so I had fresh tomatoes for quite awhile.

Numerically, I see I could plant these 70-75 days to harvest Tomatoes up till August 7 and still get some fruit. I made up a simple Excel spreadsheet to make it easier for me to determine the date that’s x days or y weeks or z months before the last frost date or before the first frost date for my area. That will help me, along with Folia, of course.

What I was hoping to learn here from you kind folks, is whether a lot of people plant tomatoes every few weeks or months (or at particular points in the weather season) to have a progression of plants in various stages of growth. With determinate Tomatoes, that would of course make even more sense than with indeterminate Tomatoes.

Tonight I planted some Big Early Tomatoes that I got along with the Giant Tree Tomatoes that I planted earlier this year. The package they came in gave very little info. Under this same name, other seed places described a quick-maturing Tomato that makes Tomatoes much larger than Cherry size. So that sounds like what I want, starting just now.

Does anyone have a spreadsheet or know of a spreadsheet that lists out tomato varieties and harvest dates? I’d be itching to do this project if there isn’t one.

I just cut suckers off of my current tomatoes yesterday. I placed in water to let their roots form. In a few days I will put in a soil free mix and leave in shade so they can root. By Aug 1, I will put in the ground and I should have great tomatoes before our frost date of Oct 15 which lately has been Nov 1.

I do this every year for a free second crop… . Best of Luck…

Ok, I just went out and cut off a growing section of many of my current Tomato plants, cut off their stems with the scissors under water, and left them all on a not-so-sunny West windowsill in a measuring cup of water with some really stinky miracle enzyme rooting/growing stuff so hopefully they will root. Assuming this works, I’ll have as many brand new Tomato plants in about a month as I have current Tomato plants growing out in my garden. Not to mention the seeds I recently planted indoors, and the volunteer Tomato plants that keep popping up out there. Tomatoes! Tomatoes! Tomatoes!

No, the cuttings that I took are not nearly as large as in that photo, but the water roots are something I aspire to happening!

Last year I bought several drip watering kits. I planned to use one kit on and above the concrete patio and the overhang. The other to be used out in the sunny yard. Unfortunately, I stored them in my garage. It’s been sooooooo hot this season that I’ve not managed to spend enough time out in my garage to find them, much less to install them out back.

On top of that, I keep changing my garden plans. Drip systems seem more suitable for perennials and trees and such than for constantly changing vegetable gardens. Unless, of course, you do it like the plant nurseries and have about 5,000 drip hoses and emitters and stick then into the pots where and as needed.